Approaching Dracula’s Castle
The cable car took me up into the mountains. As it rose, I
reflected on just how much effort and aggro this alleviated. I'm headed for Dracula's Castle in Bran, via the Carpathian Alps, or as this stretch is known, the Transylvanian Alps. Since almost every aspect of life in Romania is tainted by corruption there is a risk that this cable car may be unsafe - for instance, if the proper bolts cost £5 each and a similar one £1. If this fraud is discovered by an inspector, well his mouth can be shut for a certain sum. But all's well that ends well and we make it to the top.
Exiting the upper station, the scene was rather barren.
There would doubtless be hordes of people here in the high season, but there
were in fact less than a dozen of us in these high spaces. A Saint Bernard dog was led
among us by a hawker hoping for a few tourist-dollars of photo fees. And there was a woman in girly shoes and a leapordskin coat wobbling over the mud and scree
Alone at last, I worked up a good sweat heading off across a
ridge, and down, to the Gorge of the Bears. In the side pockets of my rucksack
were a dozen party poppers. These childish plastic cylinders would emit a
slight explosion and a few coloured paper streamers. If the name of this gorge
was meaningful, I might need them to frighten away any hungry bears. I tried
one out. The result was unimpressive. Against the white-sound rushing of the
river, the explosion was like a slight cough. Deterrant value: zero.
The attraction of the Gorge of the Bears had lessened
somewhat on the flight over. I had got into conversation with a couple of American
engineers, coming over to install a donated body scanner to an impoverished
Romanian hospital. “Gorge of the Bears, huh? You ever met a bear before?”
“Well, no, actually.”
“Where will you be sleeping?”
“Under a poncho.”
“And where will your food be?”
“In my rucksack, under my head.”
“Bad move. Bear smells the food, he’ll come through you to
get to the food. Doesn’t care that you’re in the way, he’ll come through you to
get to the food. We were setting a machine up in a hospital in Alaska last year. They
brought in a headless corpse. Bunch of guys were doing some blasting, back of Anchorage . They woke up a
Kodiak bear. Nasty son of a bitch a Kodiak. Angry bear wakes up, nine feet
tall, takes this guy’s head off with one swipe of his paw, then goes back to
sleep. But you should be OK – probably only brown bears in Romania . But hang
your food from a tree, not under your head.”
Gulp.
I decided that it would be impossible to sleep whilst
fearing the unheard approach of a bear and made my way upwards, beyond the tree
line, into the barren grassy upper slopes. From time to time, heavy rain would
come down. Despite sheltering in a crevice, I ended up soaked. Continuing my
ascent, I reached a place where rhododendron-like bushes grew in a strange
horizontal fashion, doubtless to resist the winds. There was enough dead wood
to make a respectable fire, and I was able to dry out my kit under my
sheltering poncho.
The next morning, a couple of fit young astronomers awoke me
as they skipped up the slopes heading for the observatory up top. When finally
I got up top and passed the observatory, I reached a high ridge, with glacial
valleys radiating to all points of the compass. The sky was clear, but a ridge
of cloud was moving towards me from the North, coming in fast on the same level as the ridge like a car ferry heading into Dover harbout at full steam. As it hit, the wind got up, the day darkened as if a curtain had been dropped, and
in minutes snow was falling. I sat on a rock and huddled under my poncho, shivering, waiting
it out, wondering if I really was in control of the situation.
It passed, the sky cleared again, but I was
disoriented. The valleys all looked the same. It took a while with compass and
GPS to figure out which of the valleys led down to my destination, the town of Bran where Dracula had
had his castle. Heading down the steep slope into a wide scooped-out alpine
valley where sheep were grazing in the distance, another wave of cloud hit. The
thick clouds came rolling down behind me as if somebody had let off a fire
extinguisher, rolling down the slope and enveloping me in thick mist.
Again clear, I carried on down to the level ground, and made
my way past the grazing sheep, heading towards where the meadow narrowed before
sloping down again towards Bran. At the neck of the valley was a shack. This
was where the sheepdogs lived. A couple of hundred yards from it, they spotted
me, and came to check me out, woofing away in a deep bass. As a former paper
boy, I thought I knew how to deal with aggressive dogs, which is to point at
them and shout “down” in an authoritative way. But these were not yappy little
Welsh sheepdogs. These buggers were three feet tall, their role in life to take on wolf,
and were unimpressed by a former paper-boy. They kept on coming, their fangs
and hackles out, and were making for my calves. Fortunately, I had my trusty
party-poppers. With the circular disc, and streamers, removed, they are a lot
louder. I let a couple off, and the dogs relented, scurrying back to their den.
I passed the neck and took in the craggy route down. The
choice of route would be critical. You have to choose a path which will lose
altitude fast enough to get you down, whilst avoiding precipices. A flat sloping ramp is the theoretical ideal. In practice the rule is not-too-sleep and not-too-shallow. From below, a
strange call came echoing up the valley. Starting with a high, falsetto note,
the pitch of the voice descended, though the falsetto break, and tailed off
into a gurgle like somebody groaning or complaining. This must be yodelling. I
had always thought of yodelling as being a form of alpine singing, for entertainment
purposes. But I realised in a flash that it is in fact a means of making the
voice carry great distances in a silent environment, using the natural
resonance of the terrain to make it carry the sound. Somebody was observing me,
but my eyes were not good enough to see them. I gave a large shrug, hoping that
they would see that I didn’t know how to respond.
At a certain point, I
made the wrong choice, and it got steeper and steeper. Beyond the immediate way
forward, it was looking like misty space. Should I go forward or retreat back uphill? I went
on. I reached a point where the only way forward was under a massive boulder
sitting on a flat ledge. Going down on all fours, I edged sideways along the
giant saucer, the boulder being a giant cup, and a sheer drop to the kitchen floor underneath. On the far side of the teacup I found a dead end, and was obliged to retrace my steps.
Grinding back up the gorge, I was alarmed by a human voice
to my left and ten feet above me. The man was a fit looking young fellow with
short beard, boots and woolly calf-socks. We continued uphill to where our
paths converged, and entered into conversation. With the aid of my dictionary,
and lots of body-language, I asked him who he was.
Me: “Baah, baah?” (Bleating like a sheep.)
Him: “Da!”
“Doggy doggy woof woof?”
“Da, da!”
He then made the sign of somebody shooting a pistol. Aaah!
He has come from below to investigate the sounds of shooting! Again, with lots
of body-language, I explained that his dogs had attacked me, and then whipped
out a party popper to demonstrate how I had frightened them off. When I let it
off, he went “Aaah! Hahaha! Da, da!” (Translation: Aah, so that’s what happened. I thought some
idiot was shooting my sheep!)
The shepherd pointed out to me the proper route down. We
parted company, and I took the path. At a certain point, a steep precipice
presented itself - steep but not vertical. Nailed into the living rock was a steel hawser. How high? Maybe a couple of double decker buses high. Rucksack on
back, I went down into the void, hand over hand, hoping that I had enough
strength in my hands to reach the bottom before my grip loosened. After the precipice it was a walk in the park. From below
there again came the sound of yodelling. This must be Daddy, asking the
shepherd if he was OK. From, above, the shepherd answered. The conversation
continued. I imagined that Dad went on to enquire what his son wanted for
dinner, and that son was replying (in yodelly-screechy sounds as if he was being stabbed to
death) that he wanted beans and chips.
The slope was now perfectly manageable, and I made my way
through mile after mile of forest meeting, on the way, a team of lumberjacks
felling the trees with axas and a chainsaw. A wizened old grandad gave me a sip from his hip flask of
some vicious spirit. I asked them about bears. “Da, da, muy Urs” (yeah, yeah, there are lots of bear in these
parts).
I couldn’t reach Bran before nightfall, so camped out near a
stream. I made an all-night fire using big logs, and improvised my anti-bear
defences. Using the string that I always carry, I put a cordon - a ring of string around
me on twigs pushed into the soil, and inserted party poppers into the string in series. I
experimented, deliberately tripping the string. The party popper gave a satisfying
bang. With my food hung up in the branches of trees, and safe within my circular booby trap, I managed a proper night’s
sleep. Next to my head I kept saucepans and spoons, ready to make a right old
clatter if the local bears decided to pay me a visit.
Sadly, in my time in the Transylvanian
Alps I saw not a single bear. Dracula's castle was everything onemight expect, with pointed turrets and battlements and arrow slits. Perched over the town, it spoke to me of might-being-right; it said, You peasants below might as well stay in your places because we're the Lords and even a million of you can't storm THIS baby. After an hour of rubbernecking at the castle I was bored, reminding myself that I don't do monuments.
The Balla Family
Transylvania is historically Hungarian but today is, of course, in Romania. I imagine a lot of blood has been spilled over the centuries. I subject Martin to the Tebbit Cricket Test. B: OK Martin, let's suppose that Hungary are to play Romania at football. Who do you shout for? The country you live in or the one over the border?
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