It’s a pity I can’t find travelling companions. But if I
have to go on these adventures alone, then so be it.
The rough plan from here was to take a bus up into the Atlas
mountains and then walk down to the fringes of the Sahara .
Maybe buy a bike off somebody and free-wheel down. On my first full day in Marrakesh I rose early
and strolled through the souks. The
morning sky was mostly obscured by the great lattices of wood that protect
agains the sun. The place was still asleep. Here and there would be piles of
rotting rubbish being scavenged by starving bony cats. In one little spur, the
cockerels stuffed into dozens of cages were crowing the dawn. Next to them
asleep on a bench, an arab wrapped up in his whatchamacallit. What an
uncomfortable place to sleep!
I decided to pay through the nose for a (shock, horror)
organized trip by Landrover. We would sleep out among the nomads for two nights,
getting there on camelback.
Our team consisted of a German couple, a pair of British
women, an (as the song says) American lady five foot tall and (bringing up
the rear) (as usual) myself.
Mary Manaker, straight from the Crosby Stills & Nash song
It was now the second evening of our excursion. The
Landrover had deposited us at a hotel on the rim of the sand dunes where we
were obliged to deposit our baggage, and as the shadows lengthened, our little
caravan was plodding rythmically along the wind-crust side of dune after dune. With the total tranquility
of the desert, the rhythmic delicate-footed plodding of the camels, and the
vivid primary colours, I thought I had died and gone to heaven.
Choosing my moment, I snapped our shadow projected onto a
dune to our left. At the rear of the shadow, my own silhouette on top of
Kevin’s. I would whisper into his fine woolly ear that I really respected him;
was honoured to be transported in such style and comfort by such a fine beast. Unlike the other camels, Kevin was very interested in where we were going, and unlike the other dullards content to view the hindquarters of the camel in front, he was moving left and right to get a better look. This resulted in his nose rope becoming detached. Oh the freedom! Kevin carried on walking, and only we two knew that we were free. And then Kevin came to a standstill and, despite my best efforts to encourage him forward, refused to budge. What did Peter O'Toole shout to get his camel going? "Hut, hut!" This attracted the attention of the guide, who came back to tie us on again, our brief moment of freedom ending. I nagged Kevin mercilessly for his lack of enterprise all the way to our overnight stop.
But God was in his heaven;
all was right with the world.
As dusk crept on, we spied our destination. A family of desert nomads were our hosts for the night. The wizened old nanny stayed in her tent. The man’s wife was preparing a great plate of rice and chicken. We sat in the dinner tent, crosslegged, gradually getting cramp, and shared the feast. Afterwards we sat out on rugs, getting to know the family better, and being sung to by the dad and the camel driver: tuneful rhythmic songs accompanied by an improvised drum – a large plastic water jerrycan. After hours of stargazing, and spotting satellites passing overhead on polar orbits, we went off to sleep in a great tent decorated inside with metallic spangles.
Awoken in the early hours of the morning by the discomfort
of my saddle sores, I reached back into my pants and detached the cloth from my
supporating buttocks. The sound was like a piece of velcro being ripped away.
This could be dangerous – in these high temperatures, a wound becomes quickly
infected. Even minor grazes on the back of one’s hand would turn dark red and
ominous. Foolishly I had left my medical kit back at the hotel in my rucksack.
Furthermore, before we had gone to bed, the daddy nomad had presented his son
to me. The lad had an eye infection, aggravated by sand. A week before I had gone
to the pharmacy in Oakengates and explained that I needed eye-drops in case I
met some nomads with just this condition. (The Lonely Planet Guide had said
expressly that eye drops were prized by the nomads.)
But my eye drops and my arse-powder were eight kilometres
away from our encampment, sitting uselessly in my sodding ruckasack. I
therefore had two reasons for nipping back to the hotel before the camp awoke.
In my pocket was my Satnav GPS. In its memory was the precise location of the
hotel. I had the ‘navigational capability’ to cross this short stretch of the Sahara , collect eyedrops and arse-repair-kit, and get
back to the encampment before the others awoke.
Without disturbing the others, I sneaked out of the tent,
left a little note to explain my absence, and took off in the direction of the
hotel.
In my readings of Wilfred Thesiger, he had explained
something of the art of desert navigation. You need to be judicious in choosing
your course. Straight line travel is of course impossible. It now began to make
sense. On the windward side of a sand dune, the surface is harder; there is a
crust. If you take the other side, where the sand is being deposited, you will
sink in and your boots will fill with sand. So there is an art to choosing your
course.
At one stage the previous evening we had debated why a camel’s front feet were bigger
than his rear feet. The answer lies in specific
loading. Given that a camel must stay on top of the wind crust, if the
weight-per-square-inch is too high, he will break through the crust and be a
less useful camel; a camel to be killed and eaten rather than a camel for
transport and breeding. This is Darwinian selection under human guidance. The
camel’s front feet carry more load than the rear do (since the head and neck
and front torso weigh down on the front) but only the hindquarters weigh down
on the rear. So, in summary, the ideal camel has a uniform
kilos-per-square-centimetre because of his big front feet.
Arriving back at the hotel before dawn, I woke up one the staff
(sleeping outside on a hard wooden bench), gained access to the depository, reclaimed
my medical kit, then retraced my steps. I got to within a few hundred metres of
our camp and spotted tents. That must be it, I thought. But in fact it was the
neighbours. Filthy children were climbing all over their parents. The old dad
made me a coffee. I gave them some token – aspirins or something – and wrote
down all their names in the back of my phrasebook. When I got back to our
encampment, I was given a good telling off by Monica, a school teacher from Surrey , for my foolhardiness. “Really, Brent, if you had
perished out there, Mohammed would have lost his job.” Rather than debating the
differences between British and Moroccan employee-liability, I took it on the
chin and agreed with her, the busybody.
The Nomad Family
We never really made it up. Monica bitterly disputed my
decision the next day to jump ship on the final leg back to Marrakesh and go out on my own. Having had a
bellyfull of her criticism, I snapped back, “Monica, this is a question of
self-sufficiency,” which I think made her shed a bureaucratic tear or two. Some
people, eh! They want to rub shoulders with uncivilized people, but still
behave by the codes of Orpington. In the Atlas Mountains ,
thirty miles from Marrakech, I chose my moment to have the Landrover stop. The
plan was to walk solo up the Ounila valley. Several famous films have been made here:
Gladiator at Ait ben Haddou; James Bond films; films on ancient Egypt
(golden sphinxes can still be seen!).
Stock photo of Ait ben Haddou
As a peace offering, upon my leaving the Landrover Monica presented me with an olive
branch, a Jewish symbol of good will. She and her friend had been making a big thing of being Jewish. Fine by me. I made my way up the valley through
Berber villages, where the women look you square in the eye rather than looking
all shifty and oppressed and be-veiled as muslim women do. In the centuries following the arab invasion, the indigenous Berbers (hence the expression Barbary Coast) had fought like wildcats to remain independent.
On the previous and final night of the organized trip, we
stayed in in a hotel. Having made my decision to jump ship, I went out in
search of supplies, especially bottled water. In a shop, I agreed a price and
said I would come back later to collect my nine litres. “Right, I’ll see you
later,” I said. He replied, “Insh’Allah.” (If Allah
permits.) “No, I
really will be back later.” “Yeah, yeah… Insh'Allah.” The point is that, as an
Englishman who keeps his promises, I would definitely come back. But in their
minds, all future events depend on Allah allowing one to do so. This is one of
the fundamental psychological differences which separate us and them. Progress
(so-called) is impeded by the notion that some higher being controls one’s
fate. Which viewpoint is correct? We could argue for ever. But the charming,
natural, technology-free existence that is such a relief from our
media-saturated Western lives would be destroyed if they thought like
westerners.
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The rides at Alton
Towers are exciting.
Designed by highly competent engineers, they give us all the benefit of a scary
experience without any risk. It is not real; it is fake. Surfing is real, as is parachuting
or being buried in an avalanche. When we meet indigenous people in the villages
their ancestors have inhabited for millenia, that is real. When they dress up
and perform in a posh hotel, they are not real.
I do not have a full definition of words such as real and authentic.
But I do know that in my search for original
experience and unique experience
I cannot tolerate being spoon-fed by somebody. Television does that for us; on
holiday it has to be REAL.
In Iran
one morning, upon leaving my room, I met a man dressed in olive-green baggy
suit and big baggy turban: by all appearance a sodding mujahedeen. In an
English accent he asked me, “Is that room free, mate?” Fascinated, I asked him
his story. This bloke had just traversed Afghanistan . (This was at a time,
October 2002) when American and British forces were attacking much of the
country to root out the Al Quaeda terrorists who had flown planes into New
York’s twin towers.) He proudly told me of a twenty-hour taxi ride across the
desert (“the driver said that if he stopped at any of these villages they’d
kill me”) and paying for armed guards to stand outside his hotel room while he
slept.
I blurted out, “Afghanistan ? Jesus, mate! Have you
got a death wish?” To my surprise, he twinkled “Yeah”, full of himself, the silly young sod.
Which brings me to the following conclusion: some of us are
prepared to accept a certain degree of danger to experience something, er,
profound or worthwhile; some of us, in contrast, deliberately court danger. The former is
rational; the latter irrational.
Over the years, as I have gone from an underequipped rookie getting
hypothermia in the Black Mountains of Wales to somebody capable of crossing a
smidgin of the Sahara , I have gradually been
building capability. I would say that the level of danger on these increasingly
ambitious ventures has been constant.
To experience a desert is reminiscent of going close to a
large dangerous beast. Provided you know enough of the beast’s behaviour, and
provided you are appropriately equipped, it can be done in safety. Put another
way, it can be done with an acceptable degree of risk.
----------
In Morocco, one little experiment I tried was a flop. When our Landrover
had stopped off in a town on Day 4 I went in search of a digging tool. I wanted
to try digging for water. No such trowel or mattock was to be found, so I
bought a hammer in a harware shop, then found a little fabrication bloke and
had him weld a plate onto the head. This would be my digging implement.
Up in the High Atlas, I located a gulley where vegetation
grew. My theory that at the bottom of the ‘vee’ water might be found was a
complete waste of time. No chance. My digging disturbed the most magnificent lizard, its
pink-spotted head the size of a ping pong ball.
Anyway the digging, whilst making me very thirsty, revealed not
even damp sand. The exercise was not worth the effort. As a potential
life-saver, a mattock is not to be counted on…
The long walk (maybe 30 km, maybe 40) to Telouet was well worth it. I
spent a night next to a stream; another on a ledge above a village and, snug in
my sleeping bag, found a parasite attached to my flesh. Eek! Gerritoff! I had a
cuppa in the sad hovel of an arab family whose kids demanded that I come to
their house. They showed me a big cardboard box sent by a French plumber who
had stayed with them. He and his wife had sent clothes and toys for the kids,
big colour photos and loads more. There are some good people out there.
The vivedness, the romance and atmosphere of riding camels out into a sand sea at dusk is profoundly satisfying.
The vivedness, the romance and atmosphere of riding camels out into a sand sea at dusk is profoundly satisfying.
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